Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2017 All rights Reserv
ed ©

 


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our reference, " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Most of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

© 1994-2017 All Rights Reserved

 

Morning Glory Collects... 
things we love to buy, wear and share

~
Mosaic Jewelry ~

 

MOSAICS & PIETRA DURA

The GRAND TOUR was the standard European vacation of the Georgian and Victorian eras. The opportunity it gave for studying culture, architecture and art made it a tradition, especially for the upper classes. And what better souvenir of this long trip than pieces of native souvenir jewelry such as Italian cameo, mosaic and pietra dura pieces. These were popular for decades, and can still be purchased today although not often in as good a quality. During this same period there was souvenir jewelry from the British Isles as well, including Scottish agate "pebble" jewelry and Whitby jet, also typical of their areas of manufacture.

Historically inspired jewelry was prompted in the Victorian era by the study of ancient Pompeii, Egypt, Greece and Rome. These motifs included designs from wall paintings, floor tiles and excavated jewelry.  Heavier Renaissance and Medieval style jewelry combined well with the heavier Victorian fashions as well, and later in the 19th century Oriental motifs provided further inspiration. Plant collecting was a passionate Victorian hobby, and these natural motifs were also reflected in jewelry. Amazing novelty jewelry was made of everything from small real birds to beetles and other insects. What we today might think grotesque they saw as innovative, and reflective of their interest in nature, science and leisure activities. Mosaics as a form of art and decoration go back literally thousands of years to the ancient world. Mosaics can be seen as early as Mesopotamia, and the Greeks and Romans with their wonderful mosaics were studied by many of us in high school. Used mostly for decorating walls and pavements, it later became popularly used in jewelry as well

Mosaics were made primarily in Italy, and there are two kinds of mosaic inlay techniques which have been practiced there for hundreds of years, "pietra dura" and "mosaic" work. They were created in two different cities, pietra dura in Florence and mosaics in Rome. Pietra dura, in Italian, means "hard stone", and it has the look of a jigsaw puzzle with closely fitting pieces on a black background. The materials were often so closely fitted together that the seams were all but invisible, and the stones used included semi-precious malachite, lapis, aventurine and turquoise. Mosaic and micro mosaic work uses inlaid glass tessera or rods fitted closely to form landscapes and other motifs like doves or flowers. Mosaic jewelry was made by setting the colored pieces into a black cement or mortar background. Pictures and shading were created by using different colored pieces.

Once travel became popular, these were produced in greater quantities to supply the tourist trade.
To determine quality, look for small elements with well made closely fitting designs. Pieces set in karat gold may command higher prices too, but only if the workmanship is of great quality.

Older mosaic pieces tend to be more intricate and well-made, with smaller pieces to form the mosaics and often done in softer colors with greater detail. There can be hundreds of pieces in a single inch of the very best mosaics. They are also more often set in karat gold than the 20th century pieces, which were generally made for a mass market and a lower price point. A mosaic missing any of the tiny pieces will be of lower value, so look closely when buying. Also watch for breaks in the black background. Treat these little pieces with the care they deserve as they can be damaged, and once damaged, are all but impossible to repair

 

 

 

VICTORIAN pietra dura oval brooch in 10k setting, white roses, lily-of-the-valley, daisy and blue forget-me-nots with green leaves make up the bouquet, circa 1890, 1-5/8" by 2".   View   View   #V32434

VICTORIAN carte de visite of lady wearing a lovely pietra dura brooch, marked in pencil on the back, "Jane Manely, niece of   ", photographer "W.W. Winter, Midland Road, Derby, Patronized by Her Majesty The Queen".   View   View  

VICTORIAN pietra dura white and pale pink morning glories bar pin with green leaves, simple but lovely setting circa 1890, 2-1/2" by 7/8".   View   #V32598

 

VICTORIAN pietra dura set in jet brooch with white rose, daisy and buds and green leaves, 2-1/8" by 1-3/4" .   View   #V32743

VICTORIAN pietra dura and ormolu type finished box, 6" by 3-7/8" by 2-1/4". The design of white roses and flowers and green leaves is really lovely and beautifully done with delicate shading.  View   View   View   View   View   #V32742

VICTORIAN jet and pietra dura brooch, 1-1/2" by 1-/78".   View   #V33507

 

VICTORIAN antique mosaic Roman amphitheater building brooch set in silver tone, 1-1/4" by 1". These were popular souvenirs during trips to Rome, and for the Grand Tours of the Victorian era. There is not even one little teassarae missing in this wonderful pin, unusual for one so old.   View   View   #V38385

VICTORIAN Pietra dura large picture frame with white marble rose, morning glory and forget-me-not and green leaves. There is a flip-out stand on the back. Pietra dura is an Italian art, and has been made for decades. This is a particularly hard to find piece, 6" tall, 4" wide at the bottom with a photo opening of 3-3/4" by 2-1/3". The photo inside shows a lady wearing her jewelry and flowers..  View   View   View   #V38310

VICTORIAN pietra dura brooch of red, pink and white roses pin surrounded by black, 1-1/2".   View   #V33610

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN pietra dura ormolu like finish box with ebonized carved wood sides, 3-1/2" by 2-5/8".  View   View   View   View   #V36001

VICTORIAN pietra dura set into a wood box with white flowers, lily-of-the-valley and a morning glory with green leaves, 3-1/3" by 2-5/8" by 1-1/2" tall.   View   View   #V33576

PIETRA DURA Victorian pietra dura stamp box with 3 divided sections, 3-7/8" by 2-1/8" by 2" high.   View   View   #a34960

 

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a pietra dura pendant on a black velvet ribbon. Carte de viste marked "Lewis, Prize Medals, Isle of Man".        VICTORIAN  pietra dura lilies and forget-me-nots brooch set in 18k yellow gold frame, 1-1/3".    View    #V28338     VICTORIAN lady wearing a pietra dura brooch. Carte de viste marked on the back "C. G. Carleton, Photographer, Main Street, Waterville, Maine".

 

     VICTORIAN 18k yellow gold mosaic doves ring, 3/4" front, size 7.    View    #V27582  

    VICTORIAN lady wearing a mosaic pendant on a black velvet ribbon.

    MOSAIC Noah's dove brooch set in 14k gold.  View   #V23962

 

   PIETRA DURA floral brooch of roses, lily-of-the-valley and forget-me-nots, circa 1910. This is the same piece seen in Christie Romero's book "Warman's Jewelry", 2nd Ed, page 66.   #Vagns

   VICTORIAN pietra dura bar brooch with pink morning glory and blue forget-me-nots, 1-1/3" by 1/2".   View   #V29819

 VICTORIAN pietra dura floral 1" pendant on gold chain. View #V25961 

 

VRBA scenic Victorian Italian mosaic in a Haskell style bar brooch with fleur-de-lis, unsigned because Larry Vrba did this as a favor for me years ago. I had the unset Victorian mosaic and he fashioned this wonderful brooch so I that could wear it. The mosaic is Victorian and the setting is artificial seed pearls wired to two gold tone fleur-de-lis.   View   View   #K11019

VICTORIAN scenic mosaic links bracelet set in gold tone, 6-1/2" wearable size with each oval 1" by 5/8". Each link has a different Italian scene created with tiny multi-colored tessera and each is a work of art. Not a single tessera is missing and the designs are all lovely scenes with nice color graduations. In all probability this would have been a souvenir of a grand Victorian era European tour.   View   View   View  #V33684

  VICTORIAN St Mark mosaic brooch in gold aventurine, 1-1/2".    View   #V34681

 

VICTORIAN micro-mosaic locket pendant with aqua background and daisy motif, wonderful colors, set in  15 carat yellow gold , 1-1/2" by 1-1/3" pendant with 1/3" loop.    #Vdc

VICTORIAN 9 carat yellow gold mosaic earrings with dangles, 2-7/8". The mosaics are set into a 9 carat gold frame and then polished to give them a glass-smooth finish that is lovely and very high quality, circa 1900.   View   View   #V34735    

VICTORIAN micro-mosaic buckle circa 1900 with aqua background and daisy motif, wonderful colors, set in gold tone jeweler's metal.Similar pieces can also be seen in the book, "Warman's Jewelry" 2nd Edition by Christie Romero on page 49, where she dated it 1800-1900.  #Vdc2

 

ITALIAN MOSAIC floral 1" round pin in soft pastel colors circa 1900.   View   #Y18684  

  VICTORIAN micro mosaic set in aventurine heart pendant with the winged lion, symbol of St Mark, circa 1860, heart is 1-1/4".   View   View   #V29902

MOSAIC  floral 1" round pin in soft pastel colors circa 1900.   View   #V24459

 

VICTORIAN Made in Italy mosaic pin circa 1900, 1".  View   #V29564

  MOSAIC 1-1/4" pendant on an 18" chain, circa 1900.   View  #Y21595

    MOSAIC brooch marked on the back "Italy", 5/8".  View   #Y27301  

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN mosaic brooch in the dumbbell shape showing doves, flowers and leaves set in silver, 2-1/3" by 5/8". There are a few tiny pieces missing and one white piece that sits above the rest, but they cannot be seen except upon close examination.  View   View   View    #V38227 

 

 

 

MOSAICS & PIETRA DURA

There are two kinds of inlay techniques which have been practiced in Italy for centuries, created in two different cities with two different matières: 

Pietra dura, in Italian, means "hard stones", so the inlays of portraits, flowers, insects, or landscapes originally created in Florence, were conceived with thin slices of semi-precious malachite, lapis, aventurine, or lapis- so closely fit together that the edges are flush and indiscernible. See European Designer Jewelry (chapter on Italian jewelry) or Warman's Jewelry for examples and more information. 

Intarsia is mosaic work inlaid with glass tesserae, minuscule glass cubes, which imitate in miniature the glorious Byzantine mosaics of the Basilicas of Ravenna and Venice, Italy.  Roman artists were known in the 19th century for working with the glass smalti from Muranoproducing jewelry which targeted the tourist trade. The smaller the elements, and the more shadings represented, the finer the portraits. As the technique coarsened in the 20th century, the holes between the tesserae were filled with wax to level out the surface. This wax application was omitted altogether, saving time, (and lowering quality) for the mass-production tourist trade.

This information is courtesy of Ginger Moro, author of the book European Designer Jewelry.
 

 

       MOSAIC  1" round brightly colored pin, circa 1950.   View  #Y15030

MOSAIC Made in Italy mosaic bar pin with black border, 1-1/2".  View   #V25907  

     MOSAIC 1-1/2" brooch.  View   #Y23962   

 

   
MOSAIC Italian mosaic necklace with flowers on each link, circa 1950, 15-1/2" by 5/8".  View  View   #Q37334   MADE in ITALY aqua mosaic necklace with lovely little roses and daisies, a tour de force in lovely colors, 17" by 5/8".    View   View   #V34991 MOSAIC necklace with pendant, marked "Made in Italy", 19-1/2" long with 2-1/2" front drop. This is a very unusual necklace with lots of color and design decorated links, circa 1920.   View   View   #Q61691

 

    

MOSAIC  earrings with red, blue, gray and white tessera set in gold tone circa 1950, 3/4".  View   #Y61603

MOSAIC cross pendant with orange, yellow, blue and white tessera set in gold tone, 1-7/8" pendant on 16" gold filled chain.   View   #Y61599

    MOSAIC earrings with cloud background with red roses, blue forget-me-nots set in gold tone, circa 1950, 7/8".   View   #Y61604

 

MOSAIC diamond shaped brooch, yellow, green, white and red tessera set in gold tone, 1-7/8".   View   #Y61600

MOSAIC early 1900s oval brooch with blue, aqua, red, lavender, green and white tessera set in brass, marked "Italy" on the back, 1-1/2".   View   #Y61601

    MOSAIC brooch, black background with yellow and white flowers and green leaves set in silver tone, marked "Italy" on the back, 1-5/8".   View   #Y61598

 

     SCHREINER  green and white mosaic center 2-1/4" pin and 1-1/8" earrings.  View   View   #S23505

  DENICOLA mosaic and tiger stripe brooch.   View   #X23991 

MOSAIC oval pin, blue grey with red and yellow flowers, circa 1955, 1-1/8".  View   #Y61941     

 

MOSAIC real mosaic made in Italy brooch and earrings, blue forget-me-nots on a orange background, brooch 1-1/2" earrings 1".   View   #Y63445 MOSAIC brooch in green with colorful roses and forget-me-nots, on original card, brooch 1-3/4" by 1-1/3".   #Q63729  MOSAIC real mosaic made in Italy brooch and earrings, flower bouquets on a blue background, brooch 1-1/4" earrings 1".   View   #Y63446  

 

 

    

 

MOSAIC Italian oval earrings with sage green, pink, red and white set in gold tone, 3/4" by 5/8" clip backs.  View   #Q66266

  


 

 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

                       

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PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
I love jewelry, but appraising and selling are two entirely different businesses, and I choose selling as my business.

Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.