|
|
During part of the Victorian period from about
1860 to 1890, this jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish
color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each carried special
meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand
carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos
might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on
pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn
during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its
beauty and sentiment.
|
Note: You are on a reference page of
Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private
collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available for sale can be
accessed from the links on this page.
|
VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite cameo brooch and
earrings. Carte de Viste marked "Lonsdale Abell, Kendall Lane,
St. John's Hill, Leeds". |
VICTORIAN
lady wearing a portrait pendant set in jet on a black neck ribbon and a bog
oak oval brooch at her neckline. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4",
marked "R.P. Skeolan, Harrogate" on the front and "miniature painter" on the
back.
View |
VICTORIAN lady
wearing a vulcanite hand brooch on her lacy necklace and faceted jet
bracelet on her arm. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8", marked W.J.
Wellsted & Son, 19 & 20 Paragon St, Hull on both front and back, and
"Photographers of the Prince & Princess of Wales" along with "Copies can
be had at any time or an enlargement finished in oil or watercolors" on
the back. Back also has a birds and bamboo design.
View |
|
VICTORIAN hand
carved Whitby jet and shell cameo brooch with Greek key design edge,
2" by 1-3/4". View #V29821 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet setting with a
pink hand carved shell cameo brooch, circa 1870, 1-5/8".
View
View #V29217 |
VICTORIAN Whitby shell cameo
set in Greek key motif carved jet brooch on gold plaque back, circa 1870, 1-5/8".
View #V28766 |
|
VICTORIAN large
pink shell cameo set in jet brooch with pendant loop, 2-1/3". The lovely
lady has roses in her hair and is a left-facing profile. View #V33162 |
VICTORIAN shell
cameos set in jet brooches and earrings. #Victjetcams |
VICTORIAN cameo
brooch of Nyx, Goddess of the Night in "Night with her Children". Hand
carved pink shell is set in jet, circa 1860, 2-1/8" by 1-3/4".
Beautifully hand carved to
depict 'Night' after a relief done by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen in
1815. She carries her twin children
Hypnos, god of sleep, and Thanatos, god of death. Her wings spread over the
earth to create the dark of night. The owl, bird of the night, is one of her
attributes. View
View #V33163 |
|
VICTORIAN Whitby jet and cameo brooch, 1-7/8" by 1-1/2".
View #V31295 |
VICTORIAN Whitby
jet hand carved signed brooch with hinge and c-catch and a pendant loop on the back. Signed jet
pieces are very rare treasures. The subject is the Madonna with "Ecce Ancilla
Domini" (The Annunciation) lettered on the front, set in gold tone,
2-1/3". The maker's signature is, "From John Harland, jet ornament, made in
Whitby". Mr. Harland worked in New Quay circa 1867. Most of the jet
pieces that were signed were marked to be entered into a competition. This
piece came from the collection of Helen Muller, author of "Jet" the best
book on Victorian jet and vulcanite jewelry.
View
View #V29163 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet and pink shell
cameo brooch, crack at base of
cameo, 2-1/8" by 1-7/8".
View
View #V29888 |
|
VICTORIAN Whitby jet
brooch with inset hand painted porcelain "Tyrolean boy", 1-3/4".
View #V29224 |
VICTORIAN
painted porcelain miniature set in jet Tyrolean boy portrait brooch, circa 1870, 2-1/8". For a
similar piece see page 32 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments"
View #V25351 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite green boy pendant, 2-5/8".
View #V28876 |
|
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
painted child on porcelain brooch, 1-1/3".
View #V29291 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite
full face cameo brooch with carved Greek key border, 2-1/3".
View #V28834 |
VICTORIAN jet carved brooch set with a small green
Tyrolean boy portrait on porcelain, 1-1/3".
View #V29138 |
|
VICTORIAN jet oval deeply carved flowers brooch with scallop and bead
edging, 1-7/8". View
View #V28789 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved cameo brooch and earrings matched set in original box, brooch 1-7/8" by
1-1/2", earrings 2-1/8" by 7/8".
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
View #V31827
|
VICTORIAN jet lily-of-the-valley hand carved brooch, 1-1/3" by 1-1/8".
View #V31207 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite bird
brooch, very three-dimensional, 2-1/3".
View #V29816 |
VICTORIAN jet and hand painted on porcelain lady in pink and blue
portrait brooch, Greek key design edge, 1-7/8" by 1-1/2".
View #V29889 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite bird
brooch registry mark stamped on pin back "Rd No 15623", 2-1/2" .
View
View
#V31773 |
|
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved brooch and earrings with painted porcelain ovals of cherubs and flowers,
a rare set with wonderful detailing. #VHM3 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved brooch with a pietra dura inset of flowers. #VHM2 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved matching brooch and earrings with delicate floral pierced and carved
design. View #VHM4 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
blackberry pin, 2".
View #V27898 |
VICTORIAN pietra dura set in jet
brooch with white rose, daisy and buds and green leaves, 2-1/8" by 1-3/4" .
View #V32743 |
VICTORIAN lady wearing a pair
of jet earrings and a fern brooch. R. Riter & Co. Photographers, Bombay
& Poona, India.
View
View
View |
|
|
VICTORIAN jet and pietra
dura brooch, 1-1/2" by 1-/78".
View #V33507 |
|
|
VICTORIAN jet carved rose,
lily-of-the-valley and forget-me-nots flowers brooch, has a chip on back,
not visible when worn, 1-3/4".
View #V28871 |
VICTORIAN
jet carved oval roses
pin, 1-3/4".
View #V28194 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite oval brooch covered in fuchsia flowers, symbol of humble love, 1-3/4".
View
#V25884 |
|
VICTORIAN Whitby hand
carved jet cameo brooch, 1-7/8" by 1-1/2".
View
View #V31553 |
VICTORIAN jet
carved oval fern leaf brooch w/pendant loop, 1-3/4".
View #V25875 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite Dickens brooch, 2-1/8" by 1-3/4".
View #V29887 |
|
VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet brooch and earrings
and a vulcanite locket on chain, 2-1/2" by 4". "E. Le Jeune Photographe,
Naples". View
View #Vkph22 |
VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a bog oak brooch, a
double strand of jet beads from which a cross is suspended and earrings,
2-1/2" by 4". "W. Turner, 40 Albion Street, Leeds".
View
View #Vkph18 |
VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a vulcanite locket on a
black ribbon, 2-1/2" by 4". "Henry Knight, Artist & photographer, Regina House,
Grand Parade, St. Leonards on Sea".
View
View #Vkph19 |
|
There are several materials used to make mourning
jewelry, and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak,
horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.
IDENTIFICATION: Jet brooches will have an applied pin back like these:
PIN BACK and this
PIN BACK. An inset
back like this would indicate that the piece is vulcanite or another black
material, not jet: PIN
BACK.
Jet chains have links with two duplicate pieces which are pegged and then
glued together. Vulcanite links are all one piece with a slit in one end to
insert the next link. This can be done because vulcanite is malleable,
unlike jet which is brittle.
Jet lockets are smooth inside while vulcanite lockets are textured with a
design inside: Vulcanite
locket
Signed pieces are very hard to find, and when found they are
usually extremely well-carved. The jet workers only signed their very best
pieces and these pieces were sometimes carved for a competition.
For information on identifying these materials, see the book
"JET" by Helen Muller.
|
|
VICTORIAN
jet and seed pearl hair brooch with plaited blonde and brown hair under
glass, 1-3/4". Seed pearls in Victorian jewelry often represented tears.
View
#V29447 |
VICTORIAN jet carved sea
shell shaped brooch, 1-1/8".
View
View #V29257 |
VICTORIAN jet oval brooch
with silver floral engraved applied plate, 1-5/8".
View #V27254 |
|
VICTORIAN jet grapes brooch with twist surround,
small chips on back, 2".
View #V28198 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite hand brooch in the shape of the sign
for "love", 2-1/3". View
View #V28774 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite pierced
twig frame design with floral center brooch, 1-5/8".
View #V29301 |
|
VICTORIAN jet brooch with applied gold flower bouquet, pierced and carved
brooch, 2-1/8" by 1-5/8".
View
View #V30056 |
VICTORIAN
jet acorn tie pin, a very unusual piece, 3-5/8".
View
View #V29958 |
VICTORIAN jet large lover's knot brooch,
2-1/8" by 1-1/2".
View
View #V30055 |
|
JET is the black
fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is
particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into
jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the
1800's, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, it
will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.
VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and
heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur.
Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved,
and it was used mainly in making jewelry.
HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.
BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a
brownish-black, and has a woody texture.
FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like
all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or
vulcanite.
BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a
composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly
polished.
GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented
by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was
used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs,
pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household
purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was
very rarely used for jewelry.
Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller's
book Jet and in Christie Romero's Warman's Jewelry,
Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.
|
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite high
relief lady profile cameo pin gold metal surround, 2".
View #V27235 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite
cameo with twisted surround, 2".
View #V27208 |
VICTORIAN jet
carved cameo brooch, chip on back, 2-1/4".
View #V28069 |
|
VICTORIAN jet cameo brooch with pendant loop on back, 1-7/8".
View #V28195 |
VICTORIAN lady
wearing a jet cameo brooch,
earrings and pendant. Carte de viste marked "L. Abell, Kendal Lane, Leeds". |
VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant
hanging pin with lady cameo, 3-1/3".
View #V27249 |
|
VICTORIAN Whitby jet anchor,
unusually large, 3-7/8" by 1-3/4". The anchor is beautifully carved
and unusually large, but the way the pin back was attached is a bit messy. It
does not affect the ability to wear it or show fro the front though.
View
View
View #V32314 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved cameo brooch of a
lady, 2", beautifully carved. View
#V32111 |
VICTORIAN jet knot brooch and
long chain. Charles A. Gandy, 5 Bishopsgate St. Without, Opposite the Church,
E.C.". View
View #Vphot20 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite deeply
carved fleur-de-lis pin and scrolls, 2" .
View #V27255 |
SWISS or Tyrolean
peasant carved black wood jewelry box with swing-out velvet-lined drawers,
circa 1845, 4" high and 8" long. This is the perfect jewelry
box for jet jewelry!
View
View
View #a29196
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
fan pin, 2". View #V25283 |
|
VICTORIAN
oval vulcanite flowers (roses, fuchsia, etc) brooch, 2".
View #V26087 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite knot carved oval brooch, 1-7/8".
View #V27252
|
VICTORIAN
vulcanite brooch with two deeply carved flowers, 2" wide and 3/4" deep.
View #V28892 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite flower
bouquet brooch, British registry mark on back for 1880, 2-1/8".
View
View #V29158 |
VICTORIAN jet pin with
silvery painted birds and nest, 1-3/4".
View #V27647 |
VICTORIAN jet small domed
pierced oval brooch, 1-1/3".
View #V29467 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
highly decorated floral etched fluted frame brooch, 2-1/2". See similar
pieces on page 90 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".
View #V27663 |
VICTORIAN jet faceted
surround brooch, 1-1/2" by 1/2" deep.
View
View #V29463 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite oval flower brooch with fruit and scrolls frame,
2". View #V27646 |
|
VICTORIAN jet entwined design
brooch.
View
View #V29474 |
VICTORIAN jet faceted,
carved and pierced with entwined initials "IMO (In Memory Of)" brooch,
1-5/8".
View #V29223 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite mourning brooch with 4 leaves motif, 2".
View #V26614 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite 50th
Jubilee "Dei Gratia, Victoria Regina, 1837-1887" brooch, 1-3/4".
View #V29230 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite fruit brooch with pear, apple and berries, 2".
View #V27648 |
VICTORIAN jet hand carved
brooch, lily-of-the-valley design, 2".
View #V25360 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite oval
brooch with oak leaf, acorn and wheat motif, 2-1/3". See "Warman's
Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 51, and also Luthi's Sentimental Jewelry page
20.
View #V27202 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite wheat sheaf brooch, 1-5/8".
View #V27379 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite
bird pin, 1-7/8". I suspect this is a robin, symbol of death and
resurrection, along with the symbol of infinity behind it. View #V26086 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
brooch with a central flower and two leaves, 2".
View #V29295 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite oval
pierced brooch with floral (tulip?) design in the center, 1-3/4".
View #V29299 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite
pierced bar with flower and leaf design center brooch, 2".
View #V29300 |
|
VICTORIAN
jet carved 1-5/8" brooch with matching 5/8" screw back earrings.
View
View
View
View #V27801 |
VICTORIAN jet earrings with dental edge and round bead center,
5/8". View #V28787 |
VICTORIAN jet brooch with dental edge and oval smooth center, 1-1/3". View #V28785 |
|
VICTORIAN jet
"grandma" bar pin, 1-3/4".
View #V28070 |
VICTORIAN jet name "Jane" brooch, 1-7/8". See name
pins on page 50 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".
View #V27904 |
VICTORIAN jet carved name pin, "Ellen". #V26062 |
|
VICTORIAN jet long oval
souvenir brooch engraved "Beverly Camp, 1889", 1-5/8". See similar
pieces on page 70 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".
View #V29225 |
VICTORIAN
French jet faceted and slightly curved bar pin, 2".
View #V28867 |
VICTORIAN jet oval dental
edge souvenir brooch with bird design, "4th D.V.A.", 1-5/8".
View #V29226 |
|
VICTORIAN jet domed center
and carved edge oval brooch, 1-3/4".
View #V29221 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite bow brooch, 2".
View #V25888 |
VICTORIAN jet high domed
etched with cross and Greek key designs, 2-1/8" by 3/4" deep.
View
View #V29220 |
|
VICTORIAN
jet faceted ring, size 5-1/2. #V29136 |
VICTORIAN
jet oval faceted and carved brooch, 1-3/4".
View #V28874 |
VICTORIAN
jet horseshoe charm, 1". #V28873 |
|
VICTORIAN jet
love, faith and hope charms, 1". See page 90 of Helen Muller's
book "Jet".
#V25189 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite anchor pin, 1-5/8". The anchor motif symbolizes
"Hope".
View #V25887 |
VICTORIAN jet hand carved brooch, open lily 2".
View #V25361 |
|
VICTORIAN jet oval
brooch, 1-5/8. View
#V29137 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite Maltese shaped cross with flowers and design, 1-1/2".
View #V25885 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite
eye-shaped brooch with intricate tiny leaves and balls design, 2".
View #V29297 |
|
VICTORIAN jet hand carved
brooch, lily-of-the-valley, 2-1/8".
View #V25365 |
VICTORIAN jet hand carved brooch, floral center, 2-1/4".
View #V25359 |
VICTORIAN jet hand carved brooch, diamond and swirl motif, 2-1/4".
View #V25364 |
|
VICTORIAN
jet floral carved bar pin, 1-5/8".
View #V25348 |
VICTORIAN
"Real Whitby Jet" hand carved brooch on original card, faceted with diamond
shapes, 2" #V25340 |
VICTORIAN jet hand carved brooch, open stylized flower center, 2".
View #V25363 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite rose flower bar pin, 1-7/8".
View #V28061 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite flowers bar brooch with ribbed edge decor, 1-3/4".
View #V29143 |
VICTORIAN jet
brooch, well carved elongated oval, 2-1/4"/
View #V28550 |
|
VICTORIAN "Whitby Jet" hand
carved brooch on original card, knotted motif, 1-3/4". #V25345 |
VICTORIAN "Whitby Jet" hand carved brooch on original card, rose and
lily-of-the-valley, 2-1/4". #V25339 |
VICTORIAN "Whitby Jet" hand
carved brooch on original card, bar pin with starburst center, 2-1/8". See
page 70 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".
#V25341 |
|
VICTORIAN "Whitby Jet" hand
carved brooch on original card, rose and leaves, 1-7/8". #V25343 |
VICTORIAN "Whitby Jet" hand carved brooch on original card, fleur-de-lis
ends and twist center, 2". #V25342 |
VICTORIAN "Whitby Jet" hand
carved brooch on original card, bar pin with starburst center and fluted
ends, 2". See page 70 of Helen Muller's book "Jet". #V25344 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
rectangular with dental edging carnations brooch, 2".
View #V27378 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite horseshoe and criss cross brooch, 2".
View #V26679 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite horse shoe and
flowers pin, 1-3/4".
View #V26448 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite horseshoe clover
brooch for good luck, 1-7/8".
View #V28869 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite bar
brooch with lucky horseshoe, 1-3/4".
View #V29231 |
VICTORIAN jet
hand carved horseshoe and faceted studs brooch, 1-7/8".
View #V26678 |
|
VICTORIAN jet pin
gold and pearl, 1-1/4".
View #V27240 |
VICTORIAN onyx bar pin with seed pearls and gold metal
design, 1-3/4". View
#V28201 |
VICTORIAN
vulcanite lock fastener, 1-1/4". #V25879 |
|
VICTORIAN French jet (black
glass) faceted small pin, 1-5/8", see Muller Jet, page 124.
View #V29216 |
VICTORIAN French
jet (black glass) pins, 1-1/4", see Muller Jet, page 124.
View #V29212 |
VICTORIAN carved
floral bar pin.
View
#V5301 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
buckle with cherries, morning glories and floral motif, 2-1/4" by 2-1/3".
View
View
View #V27901 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite hair
comb, circa 1870, 4-3/4" by 3-1/4". (See Romero's "Warman's
Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 52.
View #V27838 |
VICTORIAN vulcanite buckle with violets and roses motif, 1-3/4" by
2". View
View #V27900 |
|
VICTORIAN vulcanite
and paste circle pin, 1-1/3".
View #V28067 |
VICTORIAN
jet buckle with paste stones, 2-1/8" by 1-1/2".
View #V28870 |
VICTORIAN Jet round
brooch with clear glass center stone, circa 1920, 1-1/3".
View #V27253 |
|
VICTORIAN jet brooch on
original card. #V28803 |
VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved hand brooch. View #VHM6 |
VICTORIAN Whitby
jet hand carved stick pin circa 1880, 3" long by 3/4" top. An amazing amount
of detailed carving for such a small piece.
View #V33295 |
|
 |
For more information about JET and other Victorian
black jewelry we recommend the excellent book 'Jet' by Helen Muller.
Order a brand new black and white re-print of the original publication of
"JET" by Helen Muller with front cover in color. The first and only
large book about jet jewelry and ornaments ever published, it
covers its history, geology and the materials used to simulate it
(vulcanite, bog oak, pressed horn, etc.). There are 149 pages with
wonderful black and white illustrations.
FIND OUT WHAT IS REAL WHITBY JET.
Buyer can request any signing of the book by the author.
The book is £12.50 plus postage £5.00 to USA from UK.
|
 |
|
"Jet" by Helen Muller |
Copies of the book can be obtained by contacting Helen Muller's daughter, Katy:
Email Katy |
Helen Muller |
|
 |
I am interested in buying pieces like this, so please
e-mail me if you'd like to sell!
Note: You are on a reference page of Morning
Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private
collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available for sale can be
accessed from the links on this page.
|
|