Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1994-2017 All rights Reserv
ed ©

 


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage rhinestone, costume, designer, bakelite and antique Georgian & Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when NEW ITEMS are added to the site, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our reference, " Jewel Chat " and gallery " Morning Glory Collects ". 
We share our reference material free of charge and work hard to make it accurate, but as with any research, mistakes can be made. We are not responsible for the use you make of the information here or the honest mistakes that may occur from time to time.
We do not offer identification, valuation or appraisal services. 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. Most of these items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

© 1994-2017 All Rights Reserved

 

Morning Glory Collects...
things we love to buy, wear and share
Austro-Hungarian/Austrian Renaissance/Czech Jewelry
and St. George and the Dragon

 

 

St. George & the Dragon

The first piece of Austro-Hungarian work I ever purchased is the first piece shown below, the enameled St. George in rock crystal. It fascinated me the moment I saw it. The motif in this piece is St. George and the Dragon encased in a rock crystal orb or egg surrounded by an intricately enameled and hinged frame. Although it looks at first glance like a pendant, it is really too heavy for that and the fitting at the top has such a tiny hole for a bail that I wonder if anything is fine enough to pass through it.

I am at a loss to decide what this was used for... is it jewelry or an ornament of some kind, is it a religious piece or a decorative object? It does look a bit like part of the insignia of the Order of the Garter. The Order of the Garter is an English Order of Chivalry.  It started my interest in Austro-Hungarian and St. George jewelry many years ago.

The jewelry seems to fall into three major categories: the antique Austro-Hungarian pieces circa 1867-1918; Austro-Hungarian Revival; Austro-Hungarian inspired pieces including pieces made in a similar style by other 20th century companies.
 

The quality of these pieces varies widely. It seems to me that in general and is often the case, the older the piece the better the quality. The older pieces often use genuine stones, with varied quality, and the later ones use rhinestones. The enamel work also varies widely in quality, generally with the older being the best with the most clean detail and tiny line work. Some of the older pieces even have enamel work on the loop for the chain. Not all pieces are marked but when the 18th century pieces do have a mark, the hallmarks can be so tiny that they are all but impossible to find so look carefully.

 

 

  ST. GEORGE & the Dragon pendant or ornament, 2-1/3" by 1-5/8" by 1-3/4" deep. This is and enameled figure encased in a hinged rock crystal case. All the pieces within the rock crystal "egg" are poly-chrome enamel  three diandmensional. The enameling is orange, black and green around the outside edges, and the figures are purple, blue, green, orange and black. The piece is almost as deep as it is wide. The square jump ring is typical of the 18th century, but I am still researching date and provenance. As can be seen in the pictures, the hinge is broken.  View   View   View   View   View   View   #V22499

   St. GEORGE & the DRAGON- Reverse view  This has a hinge is at the top and a clip to open it locket-style at the bottom. It is broken at the hinge.  View    #V22499

NOTE: I have now found a photo of a very similar piece in the book, Renaissance Jewels & Jeweled Objects published in 1968 by the Baltimore Museum of Art. The book catalogues the Melvin Gutman Collection, and a similar egg is shown on page 64-65. They date it to the late 16th century BUT the photo is not sharp enough to show the detail I would like in order to determine that this one I owned is of that same era. The one in the book has a drop at the bottom of the pendant, missing on my example.

 ST GEORGE & THE DRAGON interior view. As you can see the hinge is broken. The figure inside has wonderful detail.    View   View   View   View   #V22499

 

 


St. GEORGE & the DRAGON- View of top from the front with the hallmark barely visible.  One person who has seen it in person thought there was a hallmark of the head of Diana the Huntress on the top front of what would be the bail, if it had a bail. He also said that Diana is an Austrian silver mark circa 1874-??. I have not been able to confirm this as yet.

St.GEORGE & the DRAGON- View of top from the back. CHRISTIE ROMERO, author of "Warman's Jewelry", says: "I've seen quite a few St. Georges and Dragon pieces, but never enclosed in rock crystal like this. I assume the metal is silver, and if the hallmark is the head of a woman with a crescent moon in her hair, that's Diana, goddess of the hunt, which is in fact an Austrian hallmark. And that computes. This is Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival."   View


St. GEORGE & the DRAGON- View from side showing depth, which is about 1-3/4".  View from side 

 

 

  ENAMEL on sterling Austro-Hungarian "St George and the dragon" pendant 1867-72, hallmarked including an "A" for Vienna, 1-1/3". Wonderful quality with even the the tiny loop enameled in blue.  View    #Q24982 VICTORIAN Austro-Hungarian St. George and the dragon pendant, polychrome enamel on sterling with a pearl drop and seed pearls chain and two green faceted stones, c1890, very slight enamel loss, 2-1/2" by 1-1/2". Note the lovely detail, especially in the dragon's wing.   View   View   #V34321  AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN 1870 Renaissance Revival pendants are shown above, one of which is St. George and his dragon. The loop suspending the pearl on the dragon has an Austrian hallmark on it - but as is typical, it is so tiny it's almost impossible to see. This picture is from "Warman's Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume" (3rd Ed) by Christie Romero.  

 

OTHER AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN PIECES

 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN SCENT BOTTLE-  Says the owner of this wonderful piece: "I’m attaching photos of the Austrian Renaissance Revival scent bottle that I recently acquired.  I’ve been collecting for more than 25 years and this is the first bottle that I’ve seen with this enameling “en ronde bosse”.  I’ve had several Austro-Hungarian bottles with just the raised jewels, but no enameling.  As I mentioned before, I’ve admired Renaissance jewelry for some time and am pleased to have been able to acquire this extraordinary revival piece.
I think it dates to 1840-1860 time period.  The only mark on the piece is a swan in an oval which tells us nothing because it is a French import mark.  It was at some time sold at auction and was marked by the French to indicate it was a precious metal - in this case, silver gilt."    View   View   View   View   View   View   View

    AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN SCENT BOTTLE- "The stopper is a double-sided head which is enameled.  The shoulders and neck of the bottle are decorated with hippocamp or hippocampus figures (hippocamp is a seahorse type figure).  The hippocamp is also repeated beneath the central figure on both sides only upside-down.  The Phoenix (mythological) figure is on one side, and St. George and the Dragon (religious and historical) is on the other. 

"The chain was also embellished by the maker, as would have been the case in the Renaissance, with additional figures – in this case the links are hippocamps.  At the top of the chain is a figure called a “mascaron” which is a mask/face of some sort.  Sometimes mascarons are grotesques, sometimes funny, sometimes animal heads.
"

   AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN SCENT BOTTLE-
A collector contacted me and was also kind enough to share here her scent bottle, shown here.

 

 

 

 

 

 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN lovely translucent enamel on sterling brooch with garnets and pearls, circa 1900. This shows the distinctive white enamel with delicate brushwork typical of the Transylvanian technique. See Moro's "European Designer Jewelry" page 178.   View   View   View   #V24857

  AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN lorgnette of gold washed silver with enameling, citrines, emeralds and pearls, 5-1/2" by 1-1/4". Tiny mark "800" on the glasses hinge. Circa 1890.  See this piece in the book "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed", page 116, by Christie Romero.   View    View    View    View    #L13478  

VICTORIAN Austro-Hungarian lorgnette with quartz and mother of pearl set in gold washed metal, illegible hallmark on the loop end, 9-1/2" by 2-1/4" at the widest. The stones are roughly cut but do have a facet, and the lorgnette itself is heavy and well made. The glasses pop out when a light downward pressure is put on the button about 2/3 of the way down the handle. This is an antique and elegant accessory from the past!   View   View   View   View   View   View   View  #39416

 

AUSTRO-Hungarian enameled pendant with purple, red and green glass beads and rhinestones set off with white enamel work and set in gold tone metal. See some wonderful Austro-Hungarian jewelry in Carole Tanenbaum's book, "Fabulous Fakes" on page 17.   View   View   #Q21461     HUNGARIAN hand made gilt silver flower pin with very elaborate layered construction of bezel set green and pink crystals, pegged natural garnet beads, enamel flowers and cultured pearls, circa 1920. Stamped on pin, 'Hungary' with makers mark, KT, and assay mark of a dog's head, and "#3" for 800 silver, 3-3/4".   View   View   View   View   #Q31117 AUSTRIA enameled pendant with Spring green, black and white enameling, marcasites and purple and topaz colored rhinestones all set in gold tone. The chain has purple and yellow faceted glass beads and white enameled balls along it in the Austro-Hungarian style, and it is 16" long 15-1/4" chain, circa 1915 and in excellent condition.   View   View   View   #Q39287  

 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN locket wit a red paste, turquoise and pearl front as well as some very pale enamel work, fittings inside for two photos. The locket is 1-1/4" by 1", and the loop 5/8". The back has some finish differences as seen in the photo.  View   View   #Q38355

 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN necklace with garnets, pearls and lovely delicate poly-chrome enamel work on both the front and part of the back. It is 18" wearable length, the front element is 1-7/8" by 1", and the element dangling from that is 7/8" by 1/2". I suspect the catch is a 20th century replacement. A similar piece can also be seen in the book, "Warman's Jewelry" 2nd Edition by Christie Romero on page 72, and in her 3rd edition of the same book on page 117, where she dated that one to 1900, and then on page 143 is another example dated 1920. I think this one is circa 1900.   View   View   View   View   #V38660 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN bracelet with sapphires and pearls set in silver, 8-1/3" by 3/4", Austrian dog's head mark (1872-1922), 800 silver, and mark "P" for Pest (Budapest), Hungary, city of assay, maker's mark "KT", circa late 1800s.   View   View  View    #Q36404

 

 

 

  

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN brooch pendant necklace with pearls and Persian turquoise set in silver tone with a sterling chain. The brooch has a chain attached to wear as a necklace, or it can be worn as a brooch. The brooch is 1-1/2" by 1" and the chain 20" with "sterling" marked on the clasp.   View   View   #V37987

 

 

 

VICTORIAN Austrian Hungarian cherub locket with garnet and turquoise marquis and cabochons set into gilt silver metal with etched designs. The wonderful detailed cupid or cherub is colorfully hand painted and fired onto a porcelain oval. Inside, the locket has plastic covers for two photos, The locket is 1-1/2" by 1-1/3". There are two tiny hallmarks on the top loop of the locket but I cannot make out positively what they are meant to stand for. I believe one mark is the 1867-1922 mark for sterling silver, and the other mark could be a city mark. My guess would be that this lovely locket is circa 1890. You can see the Austro-Hungarian hallmarks on the wonderful reference site at http://www.925-1000.com/Faustria_02.html  "Hallmarking in Austro-Hungary" www.925-1000.com.   View   View   View   #V37874

AUSTRO-Hungarian pendant necklace with garnet cabochons, Persian turquoise and a seed pearl chain set in silver tone metal, pendant 1-1/3" by 5/8", pearl necklace 15".   View   View   #V37986

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN revival pendant with red and green garnets, blue and white enameling and mother-of-pearl all set in gold tone, total length 3-3/4" and 1-3/4" wide on a newer 24" chain. The detail is lovely and the piece beautifully made.   View   View   #Q33281 

 

 

 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style pieces
marked Czechoslovakia

 

    AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN Revival brooch with pendant loop, rose cabochons, blue rhinestones and pearl inserts, 1-5/8".  View   #Q28382

    AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style (but probably Czech) simulated cameo necklace with orange glass cabochons, green beads, purple rhinestones and white enameling, 16" necklace with 3-1/2" drop, circa 1920.  View   View   View   #Q25010

   CZECH "CzechoSlovakia" marked multi-colored enameled and rhinestone 3-1/3" pendant 22" chain reminiscent of the Austro-Hungarian style, circa 1930s.  View   #Q25337

 

  CZECH cameo necklace and bracelet with purple glass cabochons, chartreuse green enamel, and faux cameos.  View   View    View    View    View   #U5625

   CZECH style pink and green enameled necklace with pink cabochons, 24" chain 3" pendant. See Czech pendants in Carole Tanenbaum's "Fabulous Fakes" on pages 54-55.  View  #Q20905  

  PURPLE enamel and cabochon pendant with rhinestone accents set in gold tone.
View   View   View    View  #Q17275

 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN STYLE PIECES
by other 20th Century Makers

 

CORAL Austro-Hungarian Revival style screw-back earrings, each different, with aqua and orange glass stones and white enameling, the right is 2-1/4" by 1-1/4" and the left is 2-1/8" by 1-1/3". Notice that while they look great together, each earring is slightly different.    View   View   View   View   View   View   View   #Q29738

  

 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style blue, green, purple and red enamel and rhinestone necklace, with green cabochon center, 19" chain with a 3-1/2" pendant, circa 1920.   View   #Q25009

AUSTRO Hungarian Revival style red white and black enameled, red rhinestone and artificial pearl 7" by 3/4" bracelet, early 1900s. This shows the distinctive white enamel with delicate brushwork like the Transylvanian technique, wonderful detail.  (See Moro's "European Designer Jewelry" page 178).   View   View   View   #Y25070

 

 
     HOBE red and green cabochons, enamel and seed pearls 1-1/4" brooch and 1" earrings in original box, circa 1950.   View   View   #O27309     HOBE Austro-Hungarian revival gold tone and multi colored enamel, cabochons and rhinestones 23" necklace with a 3-1/2" pendant and 1-1/4" earrings, circa 1950.  View   View   View   View   #O26767 HOBE enameled and cabochons 18-1/2" necklace with 1-1/8" pendant and 1-1/8" earrings, marked only on earring backs.  View   View   View   View   #O31108

 

HOBE Austro-Hungarian Revival style pendant with blue, green and white enamel, green rhinestones and green and topaz cabochons 19" chain and total 3" pendant and 1-1/8" clip back earrings.  View   View   View   #O36001 HOBE Austro-Hungarian revival matte gold tone pendant necklace with rose cabochons, green rhinestones and artificial pearls accented by red and white enamel and tiny blue dots, necklace 17" long, pendant 2-3/4" wide. There is missing and slightly cracked enamel but it can only be seen under a 10x loupe.  View   View   View   View   #O34516 HOBE Austro-Hungarian revival fringed pendant and earrings, black enamel on gold tone with aqua marbled cabochons, artificial pearls and rose cabochons, chain 19-1/2", total front drop 3-3/4", earrings 1-1/8".   View   #O35637

 

HOBE bracelet with red, blue and white enameling, blue cabochons and imitation pearls, gold tone chains and fittings, wearable length 6-5/8" and 1-7/8" wide at the front.  View   View   #O36767 HOBE necklace and bracelet with green, yellow and white enameling, green cabochons and imitation pearls, gold tone chains and fittings, necklace 18-1/2" wearable length and with a 2-3/4" drop, bracelet wearable length 6-5/8" and 1-7/8" wide at the front.  A similar piece can be seen in the book "Masterpieces of Costume Jewelry" by Ball & Torem page 103 where this style is called the "Old World Art" collection.    View   View   View   View   View   View   #O36769 HOBE Austro-Hungarian style locket with blue, red and white enamel and blue cabochons 20" chain and 3/4" by 1-1/8" locket with fittings inside for photos but no plastic covers.   View   View   #O35475

 

HOBE brooch with green glass cabochon, artificial pearls and enameling in red, white and black, 5 dangles, all set in matte gold tone, 2-1/4" by 2-1/4", some slight wear on 2 pearls.  View   #O37178    HOBE green and blue cabochons, artificial pearls and black, white and yellow enamel earrings set in gold tone filigree backs, 1".   View   #H34307 ARCANSAS Austro-Hungarian style red glass cabochons and rhinestones with tiny aqua beads and white enameling earrings marked on the back "Arcansas" and "946". Arcansas jewelry was made in the 1950s and 1960s by Elizabeth Reimer, a Hungarian immigrant in Sydney, Australia. Her parents had been in the fine jewelry business. View   View  #Y25072 

 

   AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style white, aqua and yellow enameled and red rhinestones bracelet marked "Arcansas" and "897", 7" by 1-1/3". Though it is mid-20th century, this revives the distinctive white enamel with delicate brushwork typical of the older Transylvanian technique. See Moro's "European Designer Jewelry" page 178.
I have recently learned that Arcansas jewelry was made in the 1950s and 1960s by Elizabeth Reimer, a Hungarian immigrant in Sydney, Australia. Her parents had been in the fine jewelry business. She employed mostly women who, she thought, had more delicate hands. The work on her jewelry is certainly delicate and wonderful.     View   View   View   View  View   #Q25035

 AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style blue, green, purple and red enamel and rhinestone necklace, with green cabochon center, 19" chain with a 3-1/2" pendant, circa 1920.   View   #Q25009

 

HOLLYCRAFT brooch sterling vermeil Austro-Hungarian revival style 2-1/8" by 3-1/4" brooch with aqua glass and red, green and clear rhinestones with artificial pearl accents and enameling, circa 1946. This brooch is by John H. Hazard for Hollywood Jewelry (Hollycraft), patent number 144,711.   View   #Y24896   

 

 

 

 

 

 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN Revival sterling earrings with red and green rhinestones and artificial pearls, 7/8".    View   #Q33976

 

 


REFERENCES:
"European Designer Jewelry", Chapter 5, by Ginger Moro

"Warman's Jewelry" Edition 3, by Christie Romero

See Austro-Hungarian jewelry in Carole Tanenbaum's "Fabulous Fakes" on page 17.

Renaissance Jewels & Jeweled Objects published in 1968
by the Baltimore Museum of Art. The book catalogues the Melvin Gutman Collection.

To read more about the history of Austro-Hungary 1867-1918 you can click HERE to go to Wiki.

 

 
 

 Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry                 

TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE
.

                       

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PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
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Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.