Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
at the

ANTIQUE CONNECTION MALL
and on the internet since 1996
12815 Central NE, Albuquerque, New Mexico, 87123  USA
~
Jane Haley Clarke, owner
Copyright 1996-2008 All rights Reserv
ed ©


Welcome to the beauty, history and art that is vintage jewelry. We buy and sell vintage costume, designer, bakelite and Victorian jewelry, purses and accessories.
To be alerted when new items are added, please e-mail jane@morninggloryantiques.com and we will be glad to add you to the contact list.
Please browse, enjoy yourself, and let us know if we can help you.
All jewelry is in excellent vintage condition unless specified otherwise.  All items are subject to prior sale.
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our references, " Jewel Chat " and " Morning Glory Collects ".
We do not, however, offer valuation or appraisal services or answer individual questions regarding jewelry or antiques. Appraisers can be found on the LINKS page.
 

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
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Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry presents
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JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

 

 


Jewelry Symbols


 

 
Symbols, myths, tokens and mysteries... the things of which stories are made. Personal adornment began when man first walked upright, and the methods and meanings of that adornment has had a certain constancy through the centuries. While shapes and patterns may call to mind different meanings in various cultures, there is enough similarity to make interpreting them add an interesting dimension to jewelry collecting.

 

Note: These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only. 
Jewelry that is available for sale can be accessed at the links at the bottom of the page.
Click on each picture for a larger view.

The ACORN is a symbol of fertility and immortality, probably because they are the seeds of the "mighty oak". OAK trees can live over 100 years, and are considered a symbol of strength and stability. The oak tree was also the mythical home of the god of thunder, so the acorn was thought to be a charm against lightening.
 

    VICTORIAN locket with acorn and leaf motif, circa 1890, 1-1/2" long.  View  #V23363   BAKELITE apple juice and root beer colored logs and leaves pin, circa 1940, 4-1/2".    View   #B11360     STERLING acorn 1" screw back earrings.   View   #N23945

 

VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold earrings, each a foil-backed closed collet set dark citrines suspending an acorn-shaped hair pendant, 1-1/2".  #V32067   $185.00 AQUA cabochons, clear rhinestones and gold tone acorns pin,3". See "Adrian Classic" by Whalton, page 22-B. View #Y23552 VICTORIAN earrings, moonstone shaped as acorns, 7/8".   #V32052   $185.00

 

The BUCKLE is a symbol of self-defense, strength and protection. It is sometimes associated with the GARTER, the symbol of binding loyalty and brotherhood.
 

   VICTORIAN  9ct buckle ring dated 1898.  View   #G24203 

  VICTORIAN sterling hinged bangle with floral engraving, hallmarks inside, circa 1885, 6-1/2" by 1".  (Similar piece seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 2nd Ed, page 62.)    View    View   View   #V24970     

   VICTORIAN  gold garter pin, 1-1/4".   View   #V24442   

 

 

VICTORIAN Scottish silver with royal blue enameling buckle bangle, patterned all round and hinged in four places, solid silver and very heavy with safety chain, 7" by 3/4", buckle front 1". See a similar piece, a brooch, in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" page 33.  View   View   View   View   View   #V31967 

 VICTORIAN silver buckle bangle with etched design , 7" by 1".   View   View   #V26083   

VICTORIAN agate and sterling silver buckle bracelet, total length 10-1/2" by 1" wide, wearable by a 7-1/2" to 9" wrist.   View   View   View   View   View   View   View   View   View   #V31562

 

CORAL jewelry was thought in Victorian times to promote good health, and was often worn by young children. Coral is also associated with the boundless sea and longevity.
 

     
   CORAL 10k yellow gold ring with coral cameo, 1-1/8" by 1/2" front, circa 1900. A ring like this can be seen on page 65 of Romero's Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3 on page 65.   View   #G50651    A young girl wearing a sentimental photo locket and her coral bead bracelet, and two sisters wearing coral necklaces.  CORAL and seed pearl 1-3/4" pin.  View   #Q13052 

 

VICTORIAN coral carved segments bracelet with square rosette and carved bar stations, yellow gold fittings, 7-1/3" by 7/16". In the Victorian era, wearing coral was thought to promote good health.  View   #V32107 

 VICTORIAN stick coral in eternity knot brooch, extra large sized at 2-1/3" across. A similar but much smaller brooch can be seen in this carte de viste. In the Victorian era, wearing coral was thought to promote good health.   View  #V32108

  VICTORIAN parure of coral beads set in yellow gold. The bracelet is four strands, 7" long with a safety chain. The larger brooch has a watch hook on the back, 1-1/2"; the smaller brooch, 3/4"; earrings are screw back,  7/8"; the ring is size 7, all circa 1890. In the Victorian era, coral was thought to promote good health.  A set almost identical to this can be seen in "Jewelry in America, 1600-1900" by Martha Gandy Fales on page 245.  View    View   View   View   View   View   View   View   View   View   #V3800


 

The CROSS comes in many shapes and has meanings, spanning both time and place. Elegant and symmetrical, it is a perfect motif for jewelry.
For a history of the Maltese cross symbol, click here
For a history of the Celtic cross symbol, click here
 

   MALTESE cross brooch in blue and amber cabochons and blue and green rhinestones, 2-1/4".  View   #Y23179  

VICTORIAN vulcanite Maltese shaped cross with flowers and design, 1-1/2".  View   #V25885 

  LES BERNARD cross brooch with tiger-eye glass and topaz-colored rhinestones.  #X21880 

 

CUPID, cherub, cherubim, putto... all refer to a similar child with wings, a member of the order of angels. Illustrated in art, impishly pagan, symbolic of love, romance and the guardians of the sacred, they are also a common motif in jewelry.
 

CUPIDS hand painted on ivory in soft delicate colors set into a gold colored metal frame with hinged stand.  View   View   View   #a50473

      LAVA  2-1/3" by 1-3/4" cameo brooch depicting cherubs using early instruments of astronomy to view the stars.  View   View   View   View   View   View   View

       CARNEGIE enameled cast metal angel child brooch, 4". This is a large and heavy piece with lustrous enameling, and unlike any Carnegie I have seen before.   View   #C23043

 

    A PUTTO (plural PUTTI) is  a charming chubby nude child often depicted in art from the 15th century on, especially in Italy. Also called an amorino, a cherub or Cupid. "Eros" to the Greeks, or "Cupid" to the Romans, was the pagan god of love in all its many forms. Armed with his bows and arrows, he is always depicted with wings.

Though we now associate Cupid as a somewhat frivolous symbol of Valentine's Day, in classical times he was seen as one of the most powerful of the gods... irresistible, mischievous, and often a trouble maker. Where Cupid is, love will follow.

 

   Edwardian 14k and enameled pendant watch set with an old mine cut diamonds, a ruby, 5 pearls and one central fresh water pearl. Cherubs decorate the watch, and fantasy animals decorate the pin. Engraved on the inside from a father to his daughter on Christmas 1904. View   View   View   View    #V24861

 


 

The FLEUR-DE-LIS, a stylized IRIS or LILY, is the symbol of light and hope and shares it's meanings with the flowers it represents.  Associated with the trinity, it has also been a sign of royalty.
 

  

   ART NOUVEAU 14k Art Nouveau enameled and pearl iris pin, 7/8".  View   #Q25912 
LORGNETTE sterling Art Nouveau Iris motif, 5" by 1-1/4".  View   View  #L20909

  Brooches and chatelaine pins, among which are the popular fleur-de-lis pins.

   FLEUR de LIS gold tone and artificial pearl brooch.   View   #Y19803 


 

FORGET-ME-NOT flowers are used to symbolize constant attachment and affection and a wish that love would not die.
 

     VICTORIAN chalcedony, enamel and turquoise brooch with forget-me-not motif, 2".  View   View   #V14952   MOSAIC Made in Italy mosaic mini frame with flower motif including violets, forget-me-nots and tiny pink flowers, 2-7/8" by 2-1/2".   View   #a32170         HAND PAINTED on porcelain 1-1/4" round forget-me-not pin. View #Y25828

 

 
The GRIFFIN
(or Gryphon) is a mythological creature that combines the attributes of both lion and eagle and symbolize wisdom and strength.
 

 
 VICTORIAN brown velvet purse with tiny cut steel beads in a regal griffon and snakes motif, faceted steel brads on frame, 9-1/2" by 9" with a 32" chain handle. The griffon is a mythological creature that combines the attributes of both lion and eagle and symbolize wisdom and strength. See other cut steel purses in Haertig's "More Beautiful Purses" on page 256-7.   View   View   View   View    #P32280 SWAROVSKI clear rhinestone pave in gold tone griffin brooch circa 1988, a huge 3-1/8" brooch.  View   #K17699   

 


IVY
is the sign of immortality and everlasting life. A plant affiliated with the gods Osiris and Dionysos, it can also symbolize constant attachment and affection.
 

VICTORIAN silver locket with etched ivy design, fitting and cover on one side inside, 1-7/8" by 1-1/3".   View   #V32208

VICTORIAN silver etched ivy with beaded edge pierced earrings, total length 7/8" by 3/4" wide.   View   #V32206

VICTORIAN thin silver bangle with etched leaves design on front, slight ding on back, 6-1/2" by 1/2".   View   View   #V32214

 

    VICTORIAN sterling 2" ornate bows and ivy leaves bar pin hallmarked Chester, England, 1900-1.    #V13432   View   View   #V13432     VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding bird surrounded by a wreath of ivy pin, 2".   View   #V26449      VICTORIAN ornate bows and ivy leaves bar pin.   View   #V13421


 

The MOON is sometimes thought of as female, mate to the male Sun. Keeper of the cycles and rhythms of time, nocturnal animals are associated with it. The archangel Gabriel is said to have as his abode the moon, and the crescent moon is one of the symbols of the goddess Isis. The moon also symbolizes death and rebirth in it's waxing and waning.
 

  
 10k SEED PEARL and ruby moon and star pin,  7/8".  View    #Q22085 Seed pearl crescent moon jewelry   TRIFARI 'Diane Love' man in the moon brooch circa 1971, 2-1/2".   View   #T26611


 

The word PANSY came from the French word for "think of me", pensée. A symbol of remembrance, it is a lovely design for any piece of jewelry.
 

 

 

     PANSY lady face silver tone metal buttons, set of 12, 1" each.   View   View   View   #a50614

     VICTORIAN vulcanite 2-5/8" pendant with pansies hand painted on porcelain, circa 1870.   View   #V27373

ENAMELED pansies bracelet with rose colored glass cabochons and purple, green and yellow enameling, wonderful detail, 7" by 1".   View   View   #Y19269     

 

The PEACOCK represents beauty, dignity and immortality as well as pride and vanity. It is the symbol of Goddesses Juno and Hera and of St. Barbara, and can also symbolize royalty. The peacock motif was often used in both Art Nouveau and Arts & Crafts jewelry. In ancient times, the peacock was the symbol of rebirth and eternal life.
 

     SWAROVSKI peacock brooch in clear rhinestone pave with blue and green rhinestones and blue cabochon set in gold tone, 2-3/4".  View   #K26723         STERLING vermeil peacock brooch with cream, red and black enameling and clear rhinestone accents, 2-5/8".   View   View   #Y26699   SWAROVSKI peacock pin, 3-7/8".  View    View    View   #K19220   

 

 

The POPPY is sacred to deities of the moon and represents obliviousness and sleep. A white poppy is the symbol of peace.
 

  14k ENAMELED 7/8" poppy pin. View   #Q12735

   JUSTIN Arts & Crafts leather purse with poppy motif, back strap, 7" by 5-1/2". There is a top toggle and drop missing form the frame of this purse, but it is still useable and operates perfectly. View View View View View View #P26689 

   TRIFARI red poppy 3" fur clip circa 1941.   #T12295

 

 

The ROSE, in addition to being a joy in the garden and a treasure in jewelry, is one of the most complex symbols in history. Depending on the context, it can stand for perfection, passion, secrecy, desire or virginity.
In the Victorian language of flowers, the wild rose symbolizes simplicity, the white rose worthiness and innocence, the red rose charity and love, the yellow rose friendship and the pink rose grace and beauty.
In Egyptian times roses were scared to Isis, goddess of love and magic, and in Greek times to Aurora, goddess of dawn. As a funeral flower, it symbolizes eternal life.

 

   

     ROSE bouquet. This enameled wonder needn't be signed... it's a three-dimensional treasure with no known maker.   View   #Y19268     

  MAZER Bros silver tone with clear and aqua rhinestones rose brooch, 3-1/4".  View   #M25060 

HAND PAINTED porcelain brooch of yellow roses, symbolic of friendship. 

 

 

The SHAMROCK is an emblem of both Ireland and St. Patrick, as well as of trinity. Purported to bring good luck, it was given as best wishes to a friend or loved one. The shamrock is also said to have magic powers. 
 

   
Enameled SHAMROCK and seed pearls jewelry.
Enameled SHAMROCK and seed pearls pin.   #Q12737
  SHAMROCK enameled and seed pearls brooch, crica 1900.   View  #Q24388    EDWARDIAN 14k and seed pearl shamrock pin, 1".   View   #Q17686 


 

The SNAKE or serpent in Victorian jewelry was often entwined to symbolize infinity and eternal love.
 

VICTORIAN  Whitby jet snake bracelet with beautifully carved head, about 18" long and 1-3" to 1-8" wide. See page 83 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  Similar piece seen in Helen Mueller's "Jet" on page 83;  in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 2nd Ed" page 32 and 3rd edition page 51; and in Becker's "Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry" on page 54.   #V29886

   VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold snake bracelet with Persian turquoise head and garnet eyes, snake 1-1/2" by 3/4", total 7".  View   View   View   #V32252

VICTORIAN gold filled snake brooch with green and red rhinestones, 1-3/4".   View   #V29250

 

     SNAKE silver tone and clear rhinestones snake wrap bracelet, marked "Patented" and approx 7-1/2" but is adjustable.  #Y24892

   VICTORIAN hair brooch, tiny two-sided glass covered compartments, snake frame, 1". In Victorian times, the snake was the symbol of eternal love.   View   #V27356    

 MAZER Joseph Mazer textured gold tone hinged snake bracelet with rhinestone eyes and tail tip, 7" by 1".  View   #M25950    

 

 

STARS are symbols of light in the darkness, hope, the highest point man can reach. Sparkling, brilliant and mysterious... a perfect shape for jewelry.
 

 Seed pearl Edwardian starburst brooch, circa 1900.  #Q22923

     Trifari star series as seen in the 1966 catalogue.

  RHINESTONE 4-3/4" comet brooch, circa 1945.    View   #Y23038 


 

The SUN is the giver of life, supreme power and light. Male symbol to the moon's female, it is the heart of the cosmos.
 

  EISENBERG gold tone and red enamel lady faces 1" earrings, marked on the back with the script "E".   View   View   #E21863    SWAROVSKI  sunshine pin, 2-3/4" and matching earrings.  View   View   #K19295      FLORENZA unsigned but with original tag 2-3/4" brooch rich honey-colored cabochons, rhinestones and aurora. All done in a pewter-colored setting with both pin back and a pendant hook, this has an unusual smooth back finish.   View   View    #L19312 


 

The SWAN is symbolic of purity and grace, and is the familiar of the goddess Leda.
 

  

  

 WHITE and black enameled  swan brooch with hinged wing, 2-1/3".   View   View   #Y24340 

   DEUTZ brown wool 7-1/2" by 8" purse with 2" wide gold tone frame, 2-3/4" detachable swan brooch, double chain 10" handle.   View   View   View   View   View   #P26705

       STERLING swans brooch, 1-7/8".   View   #N24789 

 

The VIOLET is the symbol of shy modesty and quiet virtue. It is the flower of the Greek god Ares.
 

 14k ENAMELED and pearl 1-1/8" violet pin, marked on the catch with an arrow through a heart mark, circa 1910. This pin has very slight enamel loss.   View  #Q11738

     ENAMEL Horner sterling lavender and white Guilloche enamel pin with violet, 2-1/8".  View   #Y26243

Hand painted porcelain brooch, 1-3/8".   #Q23868 


 

A WREATH is a symbol of victory, merit and of anything venerated. Originally a wreath of olives leaves was presented to the winners at the Olympics. The wreath is also a sign of holiday festivities.
 

 EDWARDIAN 14k wreath watch pin with pearl, 3/4".   View   #Q23561       DeROSA gold tone with red and clear rhinestone fur clip, 2-1/3".   View  #d22677   TRIFARI wreath pin with clear rhinestones set in silver and gold tone.   View   #T19863

 

 

  
Note: These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only. Jewelry that is available for sale can be accessed at the links below.
 

Jewelry for sale can be accessed below.

 

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PLEASE NOTE: Regretfully, it is no longer possible to respond to individual questions regarding jewelry history, identification or value, or to offer written or verbal appraisals or opinions. The demand for this kind of information is absolutely too overwhelming for one dealer to fill. 
I love jewelry, but appraising and selling are two entirely different businesses, and I choose selling as my business.

Instead, articles are added on a regular basis to JEWEL CHAT on line Magazine, a wonderful reference for  information on many makers and styles of vintage jewelry. 
For information on valuing your jewelry, click HERE.