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DeRosa Jewelry & Artwork

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
presents
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JEWEL CHAT

Costume Jewelry Magazine




DeROSA
JEWELRY,

ART and ILLUSTRATION
from the 1934-1950s

Note: DEROSA jewelry that is available
for sale can be accessed

HERE
.


Ralph DeRosa
jewelry is known for its three-dimensional design, high quality
components, and translucent enameling. DeRosa
jewelry designs tend to be floral, figural, and retro motifs, and designs inspired by the precious jewelry of the era.
DeRosa jewelry is not
easy to find but is certainly worth the search. Not many pieces of each
style seem to have been made, with only a very few exceptions. This New York City firm
made jewelry from the mid-1930’s until the 1970’s, but like many jewelry
makers, their 1940’s jewelry is the best.

Hand painted illustrations from the DeRosa Jewelry Company were the first step in the design process. These
small pieces of art (most 5" by 7" or thereabouts) are from a collection
of over 300 illustrations that we own. Several are dated in the 1940’s,
and many have hand written notes about how each piece would be produced.
They seem to have been done by several different artists, as the
painting styles and designs vary. Where possible, finished jewelry
pieces made from these or similar designs are also shown here. Many
jewelry designers never worked on paper first, but for those who did,
these illustrations are illuminating as to the thought process that went into the jewelry itself. After years of
collecting and selling this wonderful brand, I have found that the
majority of their pieces were signed, so beware unsigned attributions
where there is no material to substantiate them.

I have tried to match the actual jewelry with the closest
illustrations and advertisements I currently own, and would be glad to
received more De Rosa information to share on this page. I cannot confirm
that all the unsigned pieces are indeed DeRosa, but comparisons to the
illustrations are certainly interesting and have helped me identify several
unsigned pieces.

Note: DEROSA jewelry that is available
for sale can be accessed

HERE
.

DeROSA FLORAL MOTIFS





DEROSA unsigned
2-1/2" fur clip with lavender enameled violets on a crystal circle.
View #d21154

De Rosa original art work design for the clip shown at right… the note at the bottom
reads "violets", and the clip was indeed done in violets instead of
the forget-me-nots originally illustrated. #140

DeROSA
bouquet of violets fur clip, 2-1/2 inches.
View
View View
#d18705

DeROSA matching
violet earrings.

View
#d20433





DeROSA
unsigned clear rhinestone links necklace with tiny pastel
porcelain roses and matching signed clip.
View
View
View
View
#d22193

DeROSA 2-7/8"
floral basket dress clip with tiny pastel porcelain roses.
View
View #d21672

DeROSA art work design #307


DeROSA
large 4-1/3" floral bouquet fur clip in pastel enamels and
rhinestones. View
#d21673





DEROSA fur clip with orange
and green enamel, clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, 3-1/2".
View #d34650

DEROSA original design art work
for a brooch or clip similar to the clip shown at left.


FLOWER
enameled thistle brooch with clear and purple tiny
rhinestones, light enamel wear, 3-5/8". This is not signed and may
not be a DeRosa at all, but it is interestingly similar to the Derosa
art work shown at right.
View
View
View #Y34547

DEROSA original design
art work for a brooch.






DEROSA
hand painted design art work of an aqua basket for a circle
shaped fur clip. The basket
itself is a beveled unfoiled aqua
rhinestone with beautifully enameled violet and lavender flowers and green
leaves. They are set on a clear rhinestones shelf and then into a gold tone
metal double circle with ruffles spilling over the frame. Also
shown here to the right is the original clip.

View


View
#d37820


DEROSA
purple rhinestone bouquet basket in a circular fur clip, marked
"DeRosa" on the back and made in the 1940s, 3" by 2-1/4". The basket itself is a
faceted unfoiled purple rhinestone with beautifully enameled violet and lavender
flowers and green leaves spilling out of it. They are set on a clear rhinestones
shelf and then into a gold and rose gold colored metal double circle with
ruffles cascading over the frame. There is
some slight wear on the finish as often happens on DeRosa of this era, but I do
not find it distracting. Also
shown is the original design art work for this clip, shown at the left.

View


View
#d37820

DeROSA
huge pink enameled flowers brooch with green enameled leaves, clear
rhinestones, and artificial pearls, a really large size at 5-1/4".
View
View #d25205


DEROSA
original design art work for the brooch shown at the left,
hand drawn and painted circa 1940.

View
#d38646





De Rosa
#102

DeROSA sterling
cream and green enameled floral fur clip, 2-1/2".
View #d23488

De Rosa #103

De Rosa #57




De Rosa design art work #89

DeROSA purple
enameled lily 1-1/4" earrings.
View
#d21703

De Rosa design art work #90






DeROSA
red roses 3-1/8" clip with enameling and rhinestones.
View
View
#d21162

DeRosa #1


DEROSA
red glass bead grapes fruit fur clip with green enameled leaves
and clear rhinestone accents all set in gold tone, circa 1940, 2-3/4" by 2".
This is in excellent condition and looks a bit like a DuJay, but it’s marked
"DeRosa" on the clip back. Just gorgeous and in excellent condition.

View
#d36063

DeRosa #24





DeRosa signed pink enameled flower clip with faux pearl stamen and
rhinestone accents. I have also had this tulip with the Deja signature,
and one that was not signed at all.
View
#d20434

The De Rosa original art work design for the flower
brooch shown at the left. #202

DE ROSA huge
3-dimensional rose bud 4" fur clip with invisibly set rose colored glass,
rhinestones and faux pearl. View
View View
View #d19517

DeRosa #58


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/CaroleT15.JPG



DEROSA hand drawn and painted design art work for the
fur clip
shown at the
right.


DEROSA
wild rose flowers and leaves fur clip with three
overlapping open flowers with clear rhinestone petal tips, glass pearl
haloes, tiny red glass tipped stamen and centers, green enameled and gold tone
leaves, and a realistic stem, 4" by 2-3/4". DeRosa created layered
three-dimensional pieces like this, with pieces held together by tiny
screws and multiple elements. Even the stem is well detailed! Circa
1940, it has some finish wear on the gold leaves, but otherwise it’s in
very good condition, and is signed on the back "R. Derosa". Beside this
photo is
the original design art work for it painted on tissue paper.

View


View
View #d39869

DEROSA design art work for an
open rose flower brooch or clip.


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa42191.jpg


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41861.jpg

DEROSA
large and beautiful open rose flower fur clip with red enameled petals and green
and brown enameled leaves and stems. Signed "R DeRosa" on the back, it is 4-1/3" by 2-1/4". The petals are beautifully cupped and the center is
a large glass pearl with clear rhinestones lining the edge of the petals.
There are tiny bits of enamel missing on the green leaves, typical for
it’s age since it was made in the 1940s, and there is
a bit of finish wear on the back side. The red rose symbolizes love,
passion and the union of two souls. This is one of DeRosa’s best roses!
View

View


View


View


View
#d42191

DEROSA
design art work for a flower clip or brooch like the ones shown on either
side here.

DEROSA
large open rose flower fur clip with five cupped petals and the center of a
single glass pearl. Clear rhinestones line the edges of the petals and the
leaves are a translucent enameled green. It is signed "R DeRosa" on
the back and it’s very three-dimensional, a wonderful design. It is
4-1/4" by 2-1/8" and it does have some finish wear on the top
leaves, as seen in the
photos. This is in
the book "Jewels of Fantasy" by Deanna Cera on page 197.

View
View

View


View


View
#d41861





DeRosa #426


DeROSA
red "carved" petals 2-3/8" floral clip with a glass opalescent center.
View
View #d21163

DeROSA 3" flower fur clip with
blue enameled petals, free-standing pink crystal stamen, and a faux pearl
center. View
View
#d20622

De Rosa #231
This illustration shows the same unsupported rhinestone flower petals like
those
are used in the flower clip shown at left.






DeROSA 4-5/8"
fur clip, stylized flower with red beads and red and clear rhinestones.
View
#d24359
DeROSA #248 DeROSA unsigned
6-3/4" by 1" bracelet with green enameled stems and red and clear
rhinestones.
View
View
View
#d24360
DeROSA #80
DeROSA #60





FLORAL brooch in the
style of DeRosa or Dujay, but with no signature, 3-1/2" long. Lovely purple glass beads as stamen,
transparent green enameled leaves and clear rhinestones.
View
#d20383

De Rosa
#104

DeROSA
re-enameled fur clip with rhinestones and faux pearl center, 3-3/4".
Shown in the ad at right.
View #d23570

De Rosa ad courtesy of Pat Seal.



https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41858.jpg



DEROSA
The green stones depicted in this design art
work for a DeRosa clip are the same as the red stones in the clip shown
at the right. DeRosa used some amazing and unusual stones to
create their lovely jewelry, stones that I rarely see used by any other
company.

DEROSA fur clip with
beautiful and unusual curved red rhinestone flowers, blue pointed rhinestone
buds and clear rhinestone accents wrapped with a lovely green enameled leaf.
It is in a gold plated sterling silver setting that is in very good condition.
Made in the 1940s, it is signed on the back "R DeRosa" and it is a
large size at 4" by
2-1/4".

View


View


View
#d41858


DEROSA
The orange stone depicted in this design art work for a
DeRosa clip is the same as the red stones in the clip shown on the left. DeRosa used some amazing and unusual stones to create
their lovely jewelry.


http://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesJC/Art/DeRosas/derosa18.jpg


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41110.jpg


DEROSA
original drawn and painted design art work for the clip shown at the
right.

DEROSA
intricate flower bouquet fur clip with an unfoiled topaz colored marquis center
and unfoiled topaz colored accent stones with lots of clear rhinestones, some that
have turned gray over the years, 4-1/3" by 2-1/4". There is a bow at the
top with rhinestones and pink enameling. NOTE: This came to me with the
enamel worn off, so I had it professionally enameled again in 2020 using the
pink and green colors. The colors were chosen based on the original design art
work in my collection, seen here at the right. The rhinestones are brilliant,
the gold plated finish is in very good vintage condition and the clip is tight
and works well. From the 1940s, it’s another wonderful design from this amazing
jewelry maker, and it is signed on the back "R DeRosa".

View

View
View
View #d41110






DeROSA
bleeding heart floral 3-3/4" fur clip with enameling and rhinestones.
View #d21158

De Rosa #201

DeROSA arrowroot
floral clip.
View
#d21160

De Rosa Arrowroot design art work for the clip shown at left.
#146




https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41764.jpg


DeROSA
gold plated sterling fur clip with a wild rose flower,
unfoiled red kite shaped rhinestones, and a glass pearl and dangling blue rhinestones.
It is 3-1/3" by 2" and signed on the back "R DeRosa
sterling".

We were told that this was advertised in the 1944 "Women’s Wear Daily"
edition, but I haven’t been able to find a copy of it.

View


View


View


View
#d22511

DEROSA art work for the clips #d22511
and #d41764. It is fun to see both the design art work and the pieces it
illustrates, all three in different colors


DEROSA
gold plated sterling fur clip with a wild rose flower with a
glass pearl center, unfoiled long green rhinestones, and three dangling
purple rhinestones. This was made in about 1944 and it is 3-1/3" by 2", signed on the back "R DeRosa sterling".
We were told that this was advertised in the 1944 "Women’s Wear Daily"
edition, but I haven’t been able to find a copy.

View


View


View


View

View
#d41764





De Rosa design art work for the clip shown at right. #128

DEROSA sterling vermeil
aqua and clear rhinestones fur clip, 3-1/4″.
we have had this same piece as a brooch and as a fur clip.
View #d24925


DeROSA
3-7/8" floral clip with aqua rhinestones.
View
#d21161

De Rosa design art work very similar to
the clip shown at left. #130





DeROSA 4-5/8" floral fur clip in gold tone with red and clear
rhinestones. We have also had this same design signed Reinad, and
some no signed at all. #d19809

DeROSA 146

DeROSA
sterling vermeil bouquet fur clip, 3-1/2" by 2-1/2" and stands 3/4" deep.
It has glass pearl flowers and the petal edges are accented by clear
rhinestones with rich red emerald-cut rhinestone buds.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

De Rosa #142





DeROSA red and clear
rhinestones floral pin, 2-7/8".
View #d23051

DEROSA
original design art work for jewelry. #377

DE ROSA red
and clear rhinestones 2-1/2" brooch, re-made from a fur clip
View
#d19792

De Rosa #127





De Rosa #122

DE ROSA 3 inch gold
washed sterling brooch with green glass cabochons and tiny clear
rhinestones.
View View
View
#d19201

De Rosa #175

DeROSA
fur clip
Courtesy of Tammy Hellberg





DeROSA topaz-colored and
clear rhinestones 3" three dimensional rose fur clip.
View #d21701

DeROSA sterling
4" stylized flower fur clip with green rhinestone petals.
View #d21700

De Rosa #263


DeROSA
green and white enameled fur clips with multi-colored
rhinestones. View
View
View #d23551




DeROSA gold tone
large three-dimensional 4" wild rose fur clip with green rhinestone center
and faux pearl accents.
View #d22076

De Rosa #132

DE ROSA gold tone wild rose 2-5/8" fur clip with a very
three-dimensional design. #d19671
View

De Rosa #143



http://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41177.jpg


DEROSA sterling vermeil
crown brooch with red and clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, circa
1945, 2-1/4". This is signed "R DeRosa" on the back. An
illustration for a
similar DeRosa crown brooch shows how this piece would have been
fashioned, drawing the design for approval before having the brooch
made.
View #d34505

DEROSA
crown pin with glass pearls set in gold colored metal, marked on the back "
DeRosa, 1-1/2" by 1". It’s an easily wearable regal piece, circa 1950.

View


View
The art work shown just for fun, but it is not included.

View
#d41177

DEROSA red, blue and clear
rhinestones dress clip, a lovely patriotic piece, circa 1940, 1-5/8".
This could also have been half of a Duette style brooch/clip
combination. This is signed "R DeRosa" on the back.
View
#d34366

DeROSA FIGURALS





DeROSA face and headdress fur
clip made from the design shown at right, 2-11/16". It has an unfoiled
pink rhinestone face and a pastel pink, blue and topaz colored
rhinestones crown, and all in a gold tone metal setting.
View #d20623

Original art work design for the face and headdress fur clip shown at
left.

De Rosa unsigned
bird brooch made from the design art work at the right. The blue
glass cabochon wings are accented by clear rhinestones, and they are all
in a gold tone setting, circa 1940. The design art work shown at
the right is a DeRosa design. #d20435

The
De Rosa original art work design for the bird brooch shown at the left.
#174





The DeRosa art work shows what looks like a fly that might detache from a
leaf brooch.


DEROSA
fly clip with plique wings marked on the back DeRosa and
sterling, 1-1/3".

View


View
#d37735

DEROSA enameled pheasant fur
clip with clear rhinestone accents set in silver tone, circa 1940,
4-1/3". Wonderful painted detail and the large size makes this very special.
View
View #d35732




DeROSA gold tone
poodle 2-1/4" clip with clear rhinestones.
View
#d21157

DeRosa #215

De Rosa
#17

De Rosa
artificial pearls clip.





De Rosa #151

DEROSA large fish fur clip with translucent
orange and green enameled head and fin, red and cream enameled lips, and
glass pearls and clear rhinestone accents, 4" by 2-3/4". Circa 1940s, it is
in very good vintage condition with only some cloudy clear rhinestones. This is
really cool and unusual and shows why I collect DERosa. Beside it here is an
original design art work for a very similar piece.
View

View

#d40788

DEROSA gold tone fish clip
with red and green enameling, 3". Some of the finish is missing from the tail, but this is still lovely.
This is signed "R DeRosa" on the back. View
View #d19516

De Rosa #153

DeROSA RETRO










DEROSA flower
fur clip with pink center of grooved glass and clear rhinestone accents, 3-1/4"
by by 2". View
View #d37323

DEROSA swirl fur clip
with grooved aqua tips set in gold tone with clear rhinestone accents,
all set in gold washed silver, marked on the back "R. DeRosa", circa
1940, 2-1/4". The finish does show wear at close examination.
View
View #d37371

DEROSA large brooch with red,
blue and clear rhinestones set in gold tone with green enameling, 4-1/3".
View #d37320


DEROSA leaf fur clip with deep
red and clear rhinestones in rose and yellow gold tone setting, circa 1945, 3-5/8".
View #d33634
DEROSA sterling gilt flower
brooch with single purple rhinestone, clear rhinestone accents, 3".
View #D36387





DeRosa art work for the clip shown at right.
#99


DeROSA
retro-style 3-1/3" sterling vermeil fur clip with red baguettes,
faux pearl and blue rhinestone.
View #d22511

De Rosa fur
clip

Reinad brooch which looks almost exactly like the DeRosa fur
clip shown at left.
Courtesy of Bobye Syverson




De
Rosa
advertisement from 1941. Note the similarities to the two pieces at
left.

DeROSA 3" long by
2" wide fur clip matching the advertisement at left. The center 1" aqua
rhinestone is highly faceted, and this entire clip is very
three-dimensional and substantial.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

De Rosa design art work #366



https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa42024.jpg


De Rosa art work #400


DEROSA
purple rhinestone fur clip with lovely translucent green leaves
and a gold washed sterling setting. There are clear rhinestones as
veins on the leaves and the ribbon and bow design is so nice. This was
made in the 1940s and it is marked "R DeRosa sterling" on the back. At
2" by 2", a very nice size. View

View
#d42024

De Rosa #29





De Rosa #365

Clip marked only "sterling".
Courtesy of Deborah Kosnett

DE ROSA 2-1/3"
fur clip with a large oval faceted red rhinestone center and clear
rhinestone accents. This clip also came in another color,
VIEW here.
View #d19834

De Rosa #205





De Rosa
#12

De
Rosa
fur clip, identical in design to the pin back brooch shown at
right. View
#d19782

DeROSA brooch
with
both rose colored and regular gold wash, 2-3/4" long by 1-3/4" wide. This
is interesting as it shows that DeRosa made the exact same designs in both
pin backs and fur clips.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

De Rosa
#2




De Rosa
#8

De
Rosa
2-1/8" fur clip with aqua rhinestone center. View
View
#d19070

De Rosa
#9





DeRosa Retro style art work. #330

DEROSA fur clip with deep blue,
pale yellow and clear unfoiled and foiled rhinestones set in gilt silver
metal, signed "R DeRosa" on the back, circa 1940, slight finish wear, 3"
by 2-1/4". View
#d37174
ART WOK #329

DeROSA Miscellaneous



https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41906.jpg


DEROSA original design art work very similar
to the DeRosa necklace #d41906.


DEROSA
clear rhinestone set in silver knots necklace, choker length at
13-1/3" wearable length with a 3-1/2" front drop, excellent vintage
condition except of a nick on the back where I assume someone tested it.
Please do NOT test these wonderful vintage jewelry pieces that way. It is so
unusual to find a piece from the 1940s in such wonderful condition. This is
a solid well-made piece and the pointed drops are solid rather than hollow.

View


View


View


View


View


View
#d41906

DEROSA original design art work for a brooch
with the same shaped dangles as on the necklace #d41906.


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41754.jpg


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesDG/DeRosa/derosa41754h.jpg


https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesJC/Ads/derosacj89.jpg

DEROSA necklace with dangling glass pearls and
clear rhinestones, signed "R DeRosa sterling" on the back so circa 1945,
14-1/2" wearable length and the front is 3-1/2" long.
View

View


View


View


View


View
#d41754


DEROSA
magazine advertisement for a lovely necklace like the one we have
at the left. It says, "DeRosa Designed Jewels- Brilliance and simulated
pearls in gold or rhodium plated sterling at Finer Stores."

ART WORK




DeROSA leaves
and strawberries jewelry.

DeROSA
rhinestone and enameled 3-1/8" strawberry fur clip.
View #d23233

DeROSA leaves
and strawberries jewelry.
View



De Rosa #519

DeROSA strawberry
15" necklace and earrings.
View
View
View
View
View View
View #d20199






DeROSA
blue and clear rhinestones necklace.
View
View #d21250

DeRosa art work for the necklace shown at left.
#542

DEROSA
sterling vermeil and glass pearl 14-1/2" necklace and 1" earrings with rhinestone accents.
View
View #d21239

De Rosa #





DEROSA clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 15" necklace.
View
View #d23415

De Rosa #530

DEROSA unsigned
sterling clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 7" by 3/4" bracelet.
View
View
View #d23417

De Rosa #11





DEROSA sterling
and clear rhinestones 6-3/4" by 3/4" bracelet.
View
View
View #d23416

De Rosa #503

DEROSA clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 1-1/4" earrings.
View #d23418

De Rosa #8





DeROSA clear rhinestones and
glass pearl brooch with a feather motif, 1-7/8".
View #d23050

DEROSA green
rhinestone earrings with clear rhinestone accents.
View
#d22148

De Rosa #517

De Rosa #170




DEROSA original design art work. #271 DEROSA Deco clear crystal "O"
and rhinestones dress clip, 2".
View #d20629
DEROSA Deco green crystal "O"
and rhinestones dress clips, set of two, 2" each.
View #d24358




De Rosa #523

DE ROSA
bracelet with green enameled leaves and an aqua rhinestone with faux pearl
accents, all on a gold tone band, 7" x 1-1/3".
View

View
View

View
View
#d19512





DeROSA clip with
pale aqua enameled flowers and red and clear rhinestone accents.
View
View
#d21152

De Rosa #210

DeROSA
8" by 1-7/8" antiqued gold tone bracelet with blue and red cabs.
View
View #d21702

De Rosa design art work #466





De Rosa
#28

DE
ROSA
enameled and rhinestone fur clip.
View
View
#d18851

De Rosa #164

The hand written note at the bottom says, "tres en relief", meaning
"very
three-dimensional".

DE ROSA 1-3/4 inch clip
in antiqued gold tone with pomegranate glass beads tucked into the
petals. View
View
#d19141





DeROSA
sterling vermeil 2" by 1-1/2" fur clip with faux pearls.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

DeRosa gold tone
petals earrings with faux pearls.
View
#d20625

De Rosa advertisement
Courtesy of Pat Seal and Cathy Gordon

DeRosa 2-1/4" fur clip with
gold tone petals and red bead center.
View
#d20624




De Rosa sterling fur clip
Courtesy of Linda Kripke

De Rosa illustration somewhat similar to Linda’s
brooch shown at left. #188

De Rosa #160





De Rosa #177

De Rosa ad
Courtesy of Pat Seal

De Rosa #180

De Rosa #193





DE
ROSA
pink rhinestone fur clip.

De Rosa #397

DeROSA sterling
vermeil 3" bow fur clip. View
#d21837

DeRosa #3





1946 De Rosa advertisement
Courtesy of Pat Seal

De Rosa #159

De Rosa #113

De Rosa advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar February 1947.
Courtesy of Pat Seal



DEROSA design art for a brooch or clip.

DEROSA sterling silver fur clip with with white glass beads that
tremble
on springs, marked on the back "R DeRosa sterling, a nice large size at
4-1/3" and made in the 1940s.

View

View

View


View


View
#d37182


Harper’s Bazaar Magazine
advertisement from August 1946. It says,
"De Rosa Designed Jewels Rhodium or gold finish on sterling, at finer
stores. Ralph DeRosa New York". Courtesy of Pat Seal.